Crossing Boundaries

CROSSING BOUNDARIES

The Hindustan Times
April 1, 1998

Ruchika Mehta

For designer Madhu Jain, fashion does not exist within the geographical boundaries of the trendy metros. Perhaps this is the reason she chose to seek her muse in a rather different and unknown destination of Dhaka in Bangladesh. While most designers pick up 5their sketch pad and head west words to Paris and Milan.

It was with the liberation of Bangladesh in 1971 and the grit of Shilu Abed, who attempted to revive the textile industry, that led to the formation of BRAG (Bangladesh Rural Advancement Committee), an NGO working with a nsetwork of over 50,000 craftsman all over Bangladesh. It was a chance meeting between Madhu and Maheen Khan (Sheelu’s daughter) that got the two together for the revival of ar form and rehabilitation of thousands of craftsman.

Over an elegant evening in the well-lit sprawling lawns of brother Kamal Meattle’s (of Paharpur Business Centre fame) with the crème de la crème of the city pouring in, Madhu presented her Spring collection with style and elan, something which stood out this reason.

As the modles sayshayed down the structured stair case made into a ramp, the collection unfolded the intricacies weaved by the Bangladeshi weavers.

The collection was indeed stunning with every outfit speaking volumes for itself. The Spring collection was a culmination of efforts put in during developing textiles. She has used a lot of Nashikantha or ground stitch embroidery on black and silver grey Dhaka muslin and silk and introduced the Kantha featured in simple silhouettes with narrow trousers, churidars, capes and overalls.

The finest silk/cotton hand-printed collection consists of traditional motifs in paisleys and the Mughal rose integrated into the textile in a manner that print seemed to be a weave. Madhu has used applique techniques combined with Nakshikantha to provide a crushed look. On natural tussar, the printing is done in ivory and retains the beauty of the fabric. The more you wash the silk, the softer it becomes. Tones of off white, ivory are highlighted by the pearls and crystals. Every inch of the fabric has been embroidered. It is a three layered process.

Madhu has specially put together a soft range of Jamdani sarees with the assistance of BRAC’S Jamdani project. She learnt that weaving techniques specially for this collection and the Jamdani work is so perfect that you can’t tell one side of the other fabric from the other.

Madhu work was also shown at the Miss World pagent last year at Seychelles where the President’s wife picked up a few outfits.

A closer look at Madhu and Maheen’s work brought out the intricacies in the embroideries done so neatly and immaculately over the best fabrics and summer hues. The entire collection highlights the revival of the lost traditional embroidery formsby the duo. Stylish abd classy. That’s Madhu’s work this summer.